The Golden Temple provides shelter, at a very low rate, and food for all the pilgrims that arrive at the doors. They also provide food to the locals in need, as long as they come to the temple grounds. These two groups help put nearly 100,000 people through the doors every day, and not at set meals times I should mention.
In order to maintain food service to the visitors, the Golden Temple’s kitchen staff serves meals constantly, and the ability for the temple to provide the food necessary for this amount of people is mind boggling. One might think that with food service being non-stop, and the sheer number of mouths to feed, that the quality would be subpar or that the ‘menu’ would never change. Well, fortunately this is just not true. The meals that come out of the kitchen constantly change in their ingredients, but always vegetarian in nature, and the flavor is outstanding. Served while seated on simple plates of steel, washed by hundreds of volunteers throughout the day, you are allowed to eat as much as you need, but are suggested to not be gluttonous in your intake. There are always two dishes being served, one is commonly Dal while the other is usually potato based, and you are provided with as many pieces of roti as are necessary to help to partake in your dishes.
After you finish your meal you walk outside to realize how the kitchen functions. An uncountable, well at least at a quick glance, of volunteers chop onions, crush garlic, move bags of lentils and flour to and from the store rooms, and collect the unclean dishes. Even though unguided, at least it seemed that way, the volunteers worked hand in hand like the gears of a clock.
There is real love in the lentils made here, the kind of love that reminds me of my Grandmother’s kitchen.
Here is to missing you Nana—from India with love. Brandon
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Crowned in gold
The Golden Temple is aptly named, as it is crowned and lined with more than (find number of kilos). It sits in the center of a vast pool of holy water, approximately (find gallons) in volume. (insert measurements) The containing walls, ornate columns containing intricate carvings of flowers and ivy, and even the floors throughout the temple grounds are constructed of white marble that shimmers in the light. It is difficult to look into the temple grounds during the midday without protective eyewear, as the amount of sun being reflected from all of the surfaces, golden and white both, is almost overbearing in its strength. Thankfully the retaining walls provide a ring of cover and shadow around the perimeter of the holy pond.
While walking the perimeter you find yourself surrounded by the names of the martyrs of the Sikhs cause to protect the helpless. The Sikhs have participated in many battles and wars in the world and in each have sent many troops. Some of these troops never make it home, as is the sad price of war. Seeing these names etched deeply in black against the bright white walls expressed to me the level of respect the Sikhs have for their martyrs. If you have ever visited the Vietnam War Memorial, you understand the feeling that I had when I realized what I was seeing.
After our walk around the perimeter, we took the time to wait in the queue to approach the temple. As there were many travelers, we were not allowed much time in the temple itself, but the time that we did spend made just how much the Sikhs cared about this holy place. The amount of effort put into building and maintaining the Temple stands as a representation of the devotion the Sikhs have to their religion. The gold working on the interior was intricately and meticulously created by hand centuries ago. I have no idea of how long the work would have taken back then, but I am sure it was no short undertaking.
The gleaming scene of the Golden Temple in the evening sun is burned into my memory, pleasantly so I might add.
While walking the perimeter you find yourself surrounded by the names of the martyrs of the Sikhs cause to protect the helpless. The Sikhs have participated in many battles and wars in the world and in each have sent many troops. Some of these troops never make it home, as is the sad price of war. Seeing these names etched deeply in black against the bright white walls expressed to me the level of respect the Sikhs have for their martyrs. If you have ever visited the Vietnam War Memorial, you understand the feeling that I had when I realized what I was seeing.
After our walk around the perimeter, we took the time to wait in the queue to approach the temple. As there were many travelers, we were not allowed much time in the temple itself, but the time that we did spend made just how much the Sikhs cared about this holy place. The amount of effort put into building and maintaining the Temple stands as a representation of the devotion the Sikhs have to their religion. The gold working on the interior was intricately and meticulously created by hand centuries ago. I have no idea of how long the work would have taken back then, but I am sure it was no short undertaking.
The gleaming scene of the Golden Temple in the evening sun is burned into my memory, pleasantly so I might add.
Enter the Sikhs
That is pronounced Sicks for the curious among those following this little travelogue, and before you get a picture in your head, this is not a leaper colony, it is a religious group. :P
Although this is not the first experience I have had with the Sikhs, as Rahul and I haphazardly stumbled upon one of their more important temples in Chandni Chauwk earlier in our trip, it was the longest and most direct contact I have had with them.
The Sikhs are a religious group that sought to bring together the best of Muslim and Hindu beliefs. Through a combination of these religions, Guru Gobind Singh developed a religion that follows one God, does away with idol worship, removes the caste structure, and aids others to the best of their ability. After persecution from Muslim forces as they began to attack India approximately 400 years ago, a subset of the religion was formed to protect all of those who were helpless. Some modern day Sikhs still belong to this group of warriors, and the Sikh army commonly supports the Allied forces in the times of war, through which many Sikhs have become martyred.
It was this warrior-like subset that brought about the common iconography of the Sikh religion. Although business Sikhs are identified through the wearing of a head dressing, commonly found as a tightly bound turbine, the warriors maintain their look from the early days. Brandishing either a sword or polearm, wearing shorts, and maintaining well-kempt, yet excessively long beards, the warrior Sikh is hard to miss. The weapons are mostly ceremonial in nature, but represent their promise to help those in need. This is a bold way to make a statement, one that gains respect from at least this traveler.
I really respect the basic guidelines of the religion, and believe that many people could use to follow them in their lives. The major overarching rule is to help others, even if it is in some small way.
Have you helped someone today?
Although this is not the first experience I have had with the Sikhs, as Rahul and I haphazardly stumbled upon one of their more important temples in Chandni Chauwk earlier in our trip, it was the longest and most direct contact I have had with them.
The Sikhs are a religious group that sought to bring together the best of Muslim and Hindu beliefs. Through a combination of these religions, Guru Gobind Singh developed a religion that follows one God, does away with idol worship, removes the caste structure, and aids others to the best of their ability. After persecution from Muslim forces as they began to attack India approximately 400 years ago, a subset of the religion was formed to protect all of those who were helpless. Some modern day Sikhs still belong to this group of warriors, and the Sikh army commonly supports the Allied forces in the times of war, through which many Sikhs have become martyred.
It was this warrior-like subset that brought about the common iconography of the Sikh religion. Although business Sikhs are identified through the wearing of a head dressing, commonly found as a tightly bound turbine, the warriors maintain their look from the early days. Brandishing either a sword or polearm, wearing shorts, and maintaining well-kempt, yet excessively long beards, the warrior Sikh is hard to miss. The weapons are mostly ceremonial in nature, but represent their promise to help those in need. This is a bold way to make a statement, one that gains respect from at least this traveler.
I really respect the basic guidelines of the religion, and believe that many people could use to follow them in their lives. The major overarching rule is to help others, even if it is in some small way.
Have you helped someone today?
Punjab, in all its glory
After we left Shimla and the state of H.P., we headed towards Punjab. More specifically we were on our way to Amritsar, the home of the Golden Temple. I explain more about that in another post. If you happen to find yourself traveling in the northern states of India, this is a place I would strongly recommend visiting.
Amritsar is a city rich with history, mostly conflict related, and the state of Punjab is interestingly split between Pakistan and Hindustan (India) along the Bagha border. This border is currently the only open link between India and Pakistan. Every day at sunset, a ceremony occurs at this border that we plan on attending in the next day or two. I will keep you updated when we get a chance to head up there. I hear it is quite the show.
The people, at least for the most part, are kind-hearted, and open to travelers of their state. It was in Punjab where the fact that I was different seemingly melted away for the first time in my travels. People smiled at me before I even tried, when I greeted them they returned the favor, and several strangers approached me to strike up random conversations. It was almost as awkward in some respects as being stared at all day long, although it was a comforting awkwardness.
I hope the next day here in Amritsar is just as kind to us.
Amritsar is a city rich with history, mostly conflict related, and the state of Punjab is interestingly split between Pakistan and Hindustan (India) along the Bagha border. This border is currently the only open link between India and Pakistan. Every day at sunset, a ceremony occurs at this border that we plan on attending in the next day or two. I will keep you updated when we get a chance to head up there. I hear it is quite the show.
The people, at least for the most part, are kind-hearted, and open to travelers of their state. It was in Punjab where the fact that I was different seemingly melted away for the first time in my travels. People smiled at me before I even tried, when I greeted them they returned the favor, and several strangers approached me to strike up random conversations. It was almost as awkward in some respects as being stared at all day long, although it was a comforting awkwardness.
I hope the next day here in Amritsar is just as kind to us.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Under construction
After the formal party ran down, Rahul talked me into another evening with his friends. I am glad I grabbed a nap earlier in the day. Vinod’s place was a flat near campus, as he has a job near the university, similar in size and construction to Ashutosh’s place in Delhi. It is interesting how flats all seem to be the same size and style across different states. Cost cutting techniques I will assume for now.
There were five of us in all, and we decided, since it was a beautiful night out, not too hot or humid, that we would head to a nearby hilltop to enjoy the evening scenery. When I was told hilltop, I was thinking of the serene rolling hills of southern Indiana, but what I discovered was that hilltop actually means mountain cliff face.. Add that to the things I wish I would have known before arriving.
We arrive at a partially constructed roof top, for a future flat I assume, that overlooked the lights of Jaypee University. Looking over the edge was not advised, as the steep 300-foot drop is a bit disorienting. So precariously situated, we chatted the night away, sharing stories about our respective locations of childhood and our current life states. It was another good night of getting to know so of Rahul’s college buddies. At the end of the antics, we wandered back to Vinod’s flat nearby and crashed out for the night.
Tomorrow we discover the infamous city of Shangra La Shimla!
There were five of us in all, and we decided, since it was a beautiful night out, not too hot or humid, that we would head to a nearby hilltop to enjoy the evening scenery. When I was told hilltop, I was thinking of the serene rolling hills of southern Indiana, but what I discovered was that hilltop actually means mountain cliff face.. Add that to the things I wish I would have known before arriving.
We arrive at a partially constructed roof top, for a future flat I assume, that overlooked the lights of Jaypee University. Looking over the edge was not advised, as the steep 300-foot drop is a bit disorienting. So precariously situated, we chatted the night away, sharing stories about our respective locations of childhood and our current life states. It was another good night of getting to know so of Rahul’s college buddies. At the end of the antics, we wandered back to Vinod’s flat nearby and crashed out for the night.
Tomorrow we discover the infamous city of Shangra La Shimla!
Formal events – formal attire + drunk professors = hilarity
The formal event started with me being introduced to one of the big wigs at the university and Rahul asking him if I could attend the party, to which his response was, ‘He is already here, so what would be the point of sending him home?’ At least he was kind enough to let me stay. We also had received formal permission earlier in the day, just from one of the professors, not from the vice chancellor.
The night was filled with good conversation; again I was happy that many of the people spoke decent English. I was told later that we would have hung out with more of Rahul’s friends, but two of his clicks did not get along too well. I mostly answered questions about the U.S., my studies, why I came to India and what I liked/disliked so far. Some of the conversation digressed into Hindi, which was as expected, and it bothers me less and less when it does not get translated.
We grabbed a few snacks, something chicken, something potato and some peanuts before hitting the dance floor. Interesting observation about the music in India—it is common for the D.J. to play approximately the first 30 seconds of a song, that is right ONLY the first 30 seconds. That makes it hard to dance to, and a bit disheartening when a comforting song like 'Summer of 69' rolls over the speakers.
At least the disappointment in the musical playback was somewhat relieved by the abundance of drunk professors walking around, trying to chat it up with the American. Also, I had a random Indian graduate, drunk I must inform you, approach me to talk about food from his state, Himachal Pradesh. I already have a hard enough time understanding broken Indi-British English, so when you toss in loud music that constantly shifts from Classic Rock to current day Hindi Pop, drunken slurring and the occasional interruption from the lush professors, I was completely and utterly lost. I have, to this day, no recollection of what the poor kid was trying to tell me. I only remember it was about the food because he kept pointing at the service line.
Ah the joys of not speaking the local language. I really should brush up on my Hindi before I plan another trip.
The night was filled with good conversation; again I was happy that many of the people spoke decent English. I was told later that we would have hung out with more of Rahul’s friends, but two of his clicks did not get along too well. I mostly answered questions about the U.S., my studies, why I came to India and what I liked/disliked so far. Some of the conversation digressed into Hindi, which was as expected, and it bothers me less and less when it does not get translated.
We grabbed a few snacks, something chicken, something potato and some peanuts before hitting the dance floor. Interesting observation about the music in India—it is common for the D.J. to play approximately the first 30 seconds of a song, that is right ONLY the first 30 seconds. That makes it hard to dance to, and a bit disheartening when a comforting song like 'Summer of 69' rolls over the speakers.
At least the disappointment in the musical playback was somewhat relieved by the abundance of drunk professors walking around, trying to chat it up with the American. Also, I had a random Indian graduate, drunk I must inform you, approach me to talk about food from his state, Himachal Pradesh. I already have a hard enough time understanding broken Indi-British English, so when you toss in loud music that constantly shifts from Classic Rock to current day Hindi Pop, drunken slurring and the occasional interruption from the lush professors, I was completely and utterly lost. I have, to this day, no recollection of what the poor kid was trying to tell me. I only remember it was about the food because he kept pointing at the service line.
Ah the joys of not speaking the local language. I really should brush up on my Hindi before I plan another trip.
Convocation, Matriculation, Graduation.. whatever you want to call it really
Rahul’s ceremony started bright and early, well at least for him. He had to be up and to the event at 9a sharp. Usually, from what I have noticed and been told, Indians run on DST, Daisy Standard Time. DST usually means anywhere from 15-50 minutes late. Here I had been running on DST and never even known it, I’ll be damned. So when the directors say be there at 9a sharp, they mean 9a sharp or else. So that was a bit rough for my travel partner. Luckily the rest of us did not have to be there until around 11.
Convocation went much as most graduation ceremonies do. Really important people, that most people at least have an idea who they are, minus me who needed filled in, talk for a really long time about your future and how bright it is. This particular ceremony they spoke about how the youth of India cannot be stopped, unlike the flow of a river with a dam. Thankfully for me, and Rohit my translator on duty, most of the ceremony was held in English.
We took a few snaps, congratulated Rahul, grabbed some free lunch in the mess hall, and relaxed for a bit before we took on the rest of the day. Rohit and Didi did their thing, I am still not sure what they did, and Rahul and I planned on attending a formal party for the Alums that night.
First though, we decided to nap, well at least I did.
Convocation went much as most graduation ceremonies do. Really important people, that most people at least have an idea who they are, minus me who needed filled in, talk for a really long time about your future and how bright it is. This particular ceremony they spoke about how the youth of India cannot be stopped, unlike the flow of a river with a dam. Thankfully for me, and Rohit my translator on duty, most of the ceremony was held in English.
We took a few snaps, congratulated Rahul, grabbed some free lunch in the mess hall, and relaxed for a bit before we took on the rest of the day. Rohit and Didi did their thing, I am still not sure what they did, and Rahul and I planned on attending a formal party for the Alums that night.
First though, we decided to nap, well at least I did.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)